As is often the case for travel in the Philippines, the logistics and time to get from point A to point Z are considerable. Saturday morning I left my site around 5:30 am via a trike ride to Tabaco Port (100 pesos) then we board the ferry (157 pesos + 11.20 terminal charge) for our ride across the Lagonoy Gulf to the Island of Catanduanes. When we arrived at the terminal in Tabaco it turns out 2 other PCV’s and two Australian volunteers were also heading to the Island so our adventure as two became an adventure of six. The ferry ride is a relaxing pace as we share stories of our experiences in the Philippines. We get to enjoy dolphins swimming across the waters off the side of the ferry along our way. We arrive in San Andreas about 3 ½ hours later and hop on a jeepney to Virac (25 pesos). We wander around the town of Virac for a while then share a great meal at Sea Breeze restaurant, overlooking the gulf and the Port of Virac – then we travel about 45 minutes from Virac to Baras (45 pesos) and then we hitch a ride on another trike (50 pesos) to Puraran Beach. A few of the folks ride on top of the jeepney for great views, but of course typical of afternoons in the Philippines they get rained on. Whew. long day of travel, but it is so worth it, as we arrive at this amazing shimmering white sand beach and witness an incredible rainbow over the water. Nice welcoming.
We unpack our gear into our great little nipa huts* and immediately settle into a beach pace and relax. Irene is the host at Majestic Beach Resort, a very kind and welcoming woman, who immediately adapts things to meet our needs – sure you want a bed on the porch of one the huts, you need another mosquito net, can I make you dinner for tonight? The huts had good sized windows and a great tropical breeze so sleeping was great.
We spend the day on Sunday on the beach – with early morning low tide we are able to walk out a ways across the sand and sea grass, checking in on the guys digging for fish treasures – crabs, and some kind of Japanese delicacy – a small urchin like fish. . It’s amazing many hours later when high tide comes in our walking area is covered with 4 or more feet of water. Folks try surfing but the water is pretty calm and though they try for a couple hours it is new for many and the waves don’t make it easy for getting up and staying up for any length of time. The funniest thing though is Harrison is sitting on his board and fish start flying around in the water and one actually slams into his ear and flaps across his chest before heading back into the water. Flying fish – wow.
We sit around visiting and telling stories that afternoon to be later served a lunch on a banana leaf: chicken, rice and curried vegetables. Dinner is served the same and it is a wonderful treat from a local guy Concs that Bryna knows from having been here before. He comes from Manila every month or so and spends the weekend surfing and hanging out at the beach and in his own nipa hut up the road. Nice life huh?
We slide into the easy rhythm quite nicely reading on the hammocks, moving to the beach huts to sit and watch the water, swimming, paddling around on surfboards, more hammock time and then evening with wine and conversation, card games and scrabble. Monday we wake up to fresh coconut for breakfast, just pulled down from a tree, buka juice welcoming the day - yum. Three of us head back towards Virac on Monday with two of the gals heading back to Legaspi; I spend another night at Monte Karlo waterfront inn and enjoy a hot shower and wi-fi. Tuesday I am on my way back on the 1 pm ferry. Feeling calm and relaxed - what a wonderful excursion to an incredible place. I had a long weekend of time to truly enjoy being in the moment, a slower pace, lovely people, sunshine and water –what a way to re-charge the batteries. I feel so lucky and blessed.
The place was really magical, this is the Philippines I imagined, clear blue waters, incredible views, lush tropical mountain sides, coconut palms, water buffalo grazing on the hillsides, fishing boats lighting up the night horizon, cool breezes and surfers enjoying the waves.
Well worth all the logistics and travel, especially since I am learning to just go more with the flow around here –maybe Philippine island style is getting into my soul.
* The nipa hut also known as bahay kubo, is an indigenous house used in the Philippines. The native house has traditionally been constructed with bamboo tied together and covered with a thatched roof using nipa/anahaw leaves
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